The Museum of Stip and the Triple Hecate

Posted July 20, 2010 & filed under Notebook.

More from the Macedonian Express

Yesterday, I had a great time in the WITS Creative Writing Camp in Stip, not that far from the Bulgarian border and near the ancient Roman city that we discussed in the last post.  Every morning I walk about 30 minutes to the American Corners away from the city center, past the Museum of Stip and onto a beautiful road with purple thistles and wildflowers all up and down the road. When I arrived here yesterday, after my visit with wild hollyhocks (the English would be so jealous) and gladiolas, I started the Haiku House project with the younger children.  Haiku are not often taught in the curriculum of Macedonia, and the students were largely unfamiliar with the concept, but they certainly caught on fast and did an amazing job of building their traditional Japanese houses with paper walls on all four sides with a Haiku on each wall.  The older kids built no houses but did finish the afternoon with three Haiku and seemed to enjoy the project.

At 4:00 pm, I began my walk down the mountain to my hotel and on the way I stopped by the Museum of Stip where I was fortunate enough to meet someone who let me  into the museum where, after paying my 120 dinari ($2.25 or so) I was allowed to see all the amazing archeological discoveries from the early Byzantine-Slav, Greek and Roman sites from near Stip.  It was wonderful inside.  I had already seen the Gandahara statues in the front yard two days before, so actually being in the museum was great.  There were amazing gold Roman rings, bronze ring, Greek and Roman weaponry, pictures of massive archeological digs that I hope to visit if I have time on Saturday and most significantly a fabulous picture of a work on loan elsewhere, the Triple Hecate of Stip.  This is one of a very few Triple Hecates in the area, maybe one of only two ever found in Macedonia, as the guard noted, and it is fabulous.

Hecate is the goddess of the underworld and a triple goddess is, as one can imagine, three times as powerful as some poor single goddess. Thus triple Nemesis is a powerful ally of justice and so forth.  There are some elements of celebrating the cycle of life and death in agricultural cults and certainly the great plains of Macedonia have always been so important to this area as between these beautiful hills and mountains are the river valleys, including those of the great Vardar. I was impressed, truly impressed with the collection and saddened that I was the only one visiting in that hour.  It was well worth the visit. Now, the third day of the Camp begins and children are coming into the library. More anon.

Merrilee Cunningham, Writers in the Schools

WITS Meets Stip (Macedonian Express, continued)

Posted July 19, 2010 & filed under Notebook.

Yesterday, I left Skopje for the mountains of Macedonia (the word “Balkans” means mountains) and the hills of Stip, an ancient city in Macedonia where there is a new American Corner Library. It was a beautiful trip. The sun was shining and the purple summer thistles were interspersed with fabulous little red poppies that had survived from May and June just in the places where there were rivers and streams. There are ancient early Christian churches (like 6th. century or so) that I can see from my amazing view of my hotel and just down the street is the Museum of Stip where in the beautiful lawns of the front of the museum are Gandahara-like statues which clearly show that Macedonian was a very important part of the ancient world.

There is a famous Roman city very near by.  Bargala was the name of the famous Roman city that was an important part of the Roman empire and there is an amazing statue on the front lawn of the Museum of Stip that has the body of a male figure that reminds me of so many of the Roman statues of the Persian God Mithras with his body turned backwards and his flowing cloak. Unfortunately, the head of the statue is lost, but I hope to see what is inside the museum as well as this morning, before I went to the American Corners Library, I was allowed by the lady who was working there to see two fabulous Byzantine saints from the early Byzantine period. So many of the ancient buildings here have been Byzantine, then for hundreds of years a part of the Ottoman Empire, and now part of modern Macedonian.

This is a truly beautiful town. I took a walk this morning after watching two dogs playing near the river. I got downstairs an hour later and they were still having a great time playing with each other on the cool morning before the day gets too hot to do that sort of thing. There was great attendance this morning with the younger children. The Corner hasn’t even been open for five months and yet there are 16 students in the morning creative writing class. It was amazing. They also did great work and we had no problem selecting the “Best So Far” awards for the morning class. The afternoon class was a little more difficult as we had done a brain geography and they had had a lot of choices about the character whose brain they were describing. Then they could place the character in either a first-person narration or a third-person narration. They did a great job.

It is a pleasure to be in Stip. I will write more about Bargala as I am seeing more objects from this famous Roman town. Several times during the Roman period, groups of Roman retired soldiers banded together and settled in Macedonian when they were not given land in Italy or Spain. More anon about Bargala. There is a mosaic in Bargala, a central processional pathway, the old town of Bargala is the old city of Stip, where one of the three rivers is. There is also a waterfall. There is also a really nice Goatherd nearby who is reputed to make coffee and let the Peace Corps Volunteers play with the baby goats, not to be outdone by the Pigherd in Odysseus’s Ithaca.

Merrilee Cunningham, WITS Writer to the Balkans